Kashi is dear to many people, including myself. If there is one place of spiritual significance that one must visit in India, it would be Kashi. Kashi, located in the northern state of Uttar Pradesh in India, is known as the spiritual capital. This ancient city, Varanasi and Benares, is steeped in history and spirituality and attracts millions of pilgrims and travelers yearly. The city is situated on the banks of the Ganges/Ganga, which is believed to be the most sacred River in Hinduism. A journey along the Ganga in Kashi is an experience that evokes feelings of wonder, devotion, and tranquility and can lead to a spiritual awakening.
Arriving in Kashi is easy – usually a short plane ride from Delhi. Usually, Kashi is included in the typical Delhi-Agra-Jaipur circuit along with Khajuraho, depending on how one wants their tour designed. Pilgrims do not need any ads for Kashi/Varanasi/Benares – they come out of devotion, and many consciously choose it to be their final destination. Tourists, on the other hand, come with fixed itineraries and time schedules. Upon arriving in Kashi, one can immediately feel the spiritual energy in the air. The city is known as the spiritual capital of India and is a hub for yogis, sadhus, and pilgrims, as well as those from outside the culture who are dabbling in spirituality. It is believed that Lord Shiva founded Varanasi, and his presence can be felt throughout the city, which is designed as a giant Yantra – (for a more academic discussion on this, please look up papers on Google Scholar). For those interested in yoga and meditation, Varanasi is the perfect place to explore and deepen one’s practice, and the Panchkroshi yatra will take one around the city to see the sacred geometry of this phenomenal city. Many ashrams and centers offer classes and retreats to visitors, may it be superficial or to deepen one’s sadhana. However, even for those not seeking spiritual enlightenment, Kashi offers a unique and vibrant atmosphere unlike anywhere else. The organization, welcoming chaos, and mystical energy of the city can sometimes be overwhelming. However, it is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in Indian culture, rituals, and spirituality.
Exploring the Ghats, especially during early quiet hours, is almost compulsory for seekers once in the city. The Ghats have different names, and several architectural marvels were built along the Ma Ganga River by ancient kings from different regions of the Indian subcontinent. The purpose was a mix of spiritual seeking and creating summer homes along the sacred River. People come from all over India and the world to experience the cleansing power of the Ganges and the spiritual energy of Kashi. The reason why these waters are considered sacred is that the water flows from the Himalayas through many sacred sites. Since water is considered to have an enormous memory, a seeker is aware that the sacred aspects of the water will bring about a fundamental transformation in their system when it comes in contact. It is expected to see people practicing yoga or meditation on the Ghats or even taking a dip in the holy River.
The Ghats also hold a special significance for followers of Hinduism, with many temples and shrines dedicated to deities such as Shiva, Ganesha, and the Feminine. It is a fascinating place to observe the different rituals and practices of the oldest living religion and to witness the devotion of the people who come with absolute dedication. One such experience related to death rituals is available at Manikarnika Ghat, where dead bodies are cremated by a family who has been providing this service for centuries. Seeing our physical bodies burn after death is an eye-opening experience of how minuscule our time on earth is and puts things in perspective about what matters. As you wander the Ghats, taking in the sights and sounds around you, it is impossible not to feel the awe and wonder of being in such a profoundly spiritual place. My Guru has referred to Kashi as “fabulous and filthy.” The city was a mess the first time I visited as illegal structures were torn, and dust had covered every nook and cranny, wanting to settle into pores in the lungs. However, massive government and public-private partnerships have ensured that the city is welcoming and lives up to its fame, and the roads and streets are in a much better condition.
Sunrise boat rides on the Ganges are popular, especially for first-time visitors. Tour guides often suggest to their clients to bathe before going to the Dashashvamedh Ghat for a boat ride along the River as, most likely, guides will take tourists for a walk through old Kashi. Though pilgrims need none of the fanciful offerings – flowers, diyas, and other items sold on the Ghats, many tourists will end up purchasing various items as offerings to the River and making various wishes for health and well-being. The boat ride along the Ganges during sunrise is a peaceful experience parallel to none. It is usually cool in the mornings, so it is best to dress in layers and bring a water-resistant jacket. The Sun’s golden rays cast a magical glow on the water, with seagulls providing perfect movements as one tries to capture Surya Deva on camera as he rises on the banks. It is a surreal sight to behold, no matter how many boat rides one has taken. Along the way, you will witness people taking their daily baths, washing their clothes, and praying to the River, and tourists even see boats selling souvenirs and bird feed early in the morning.
Exploring the narrow alleyways of the old city and markets allows for a unique shopping experience and a chance to see local artisans at work – this includes visiting the traditional houses that produce hand-woven traditional Banarasi saris. One can also visit the famous Ramnagar Fort and Museum, which houses ancient artifacts, manuscripts, and paintings. It is a great place to learn about the history of Kashi, though it does make one sad to see that the most glorious times were in the past. While visiting the temples, one should remember to respect the customs and traditions of the place – it is always safe to dress modestly and wear shoes that are easy to put on/take off, as this is a must before entering the temple premises. Overall, visiting the temples in Kashi is a humbling and enriching experience that helps one understand the spiritual essence of this holy city.
Moreover, of course, trying the local cuisine, such as the chaat, sweets, or lassi, is a must. However, the most transformative aspect of visiting Kashi is embracing the spiritual energy surrounding you. From the early morning chants at the Ghats to the Aarti ceremony, the city has opened your heart and soul to a deeper understanding and connection with the universe. Overall, a trip to Kashi is a journey unlike any other. It is sometimes overwhelming, but the spiritual awakening and transformative experience is worth every moment. People usually comment how they cannot wait to visit again.
Visiting the temples is a pilgrimage on its own. After the boat ride, a good guide will take one through the tiny streets of Kashi, and one can observe people cleaning their porches, fronts of their homes and streets. Visiting the various temples, such as the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, the Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple, and the Durga Temple, offers a glimpse into the intricate architecture and devotion to the gods. Several temples welcome tourists; some priests ensure one has bathed and finished morning ablutions before entering the sacred spaces. It is a truly spiritual experience to witness devotees offering flowers and sweets to the deities while chanting mantras – this is the time to wake the Deities who were adequately put to sleep the night before. Also, the Bharat Mata temple provides a comprehensive view of what constituted the Indian subcontinent before all the invasions. Each temple has its significance and architecture worth exploring, and it is best to find a local person who can explain the historical significance and preservation of temples.
Exploring the old city and markets is best done on foot. The city is always bustling with crowds. The sounds and smell empower you as you walk through the markets – everything that one wishes to buy – the profound to the profane – is sold in the markets. The winding alleys and lanes of the old city have a charm of their own. Walking through these narrow passages, you can see glimpses of the life of Kashi residents. The architecture is unique, with intricate carvings on the walls and balconies, along with jumbled-up electrical wires, adding to the beauty of the place. Shops sell beautiful handwoven articles, brass statues of deities, and handcrafted souvenirs such as copper pots and jugs. The markets also have an abundance of street food stalls where you can try local delicacies such as chaat, lassi, and the famous paan described below. Exploring the old city and markets gives you a glimpse of the mixing of the old and the new. The energy and vibe of the place leave an indelible mark on your core. The spiritual significance of Kashi can be felt in every corner of the city, and it is easy to see why so many people come here seeking enlightenment and spiritual awakening. The locals mention how even the dogs in Kashi are lucky to live in the sacred space.
Experiencing the evening Aarti Ceremony at Dashashwamedh Ghat is a life-changing experience. The Sandhya Kala Aarti is phenomenal. I have been blessed to visit Kashi a dozen times, and each time, the energies generated by the ritualistic Aarti touches something profound in my core. I have led trips for students, alums, and business leaders and seen most fellow visitors unable to control tears during this ceremony. It is a cathartic and spiritual exercise that shakes even the disbelievers. As the Sun sets, the atmosphere becomes electrifying. Seven priests adorned in saffron or maroon robes carry fire pots and chant powerful mantras in unison. After the Aarti, devotees light diyas and float them down the River, coaxing her to make their wishes come true. The air is filled with the fragrance of incense, the sounds of temple bells, and the sight of colorful flowers. The Aarti ceremony at Dashashwamedh Ghat is an unforgettable experience that fills you with an indescribable energy and spiritual awakening. I highly recommend arriving early to get a good spot and genuinely absorb the entire spectacle – one of the best views is from the second floor of a guest house on the Ghat. While Kashi may be known as the spiritual capital of India, it also has a rich history and vibrant culture to explore.
Trying the local cuisine is inevitable. One of the most memorable experiences is the matka chai available on the streets – what a great way to enjoy chai and recycle the clay pot in which it is served. Another must-do is to visit the spot where a young boy and his mother sell ghee-fried black chana samosas for breakfast. Additionally, Varanasi is famous for its Banarasi paan, a betel leaf stuffed with various fillings like chopped areca nut, fennel seeds, and coconut. The flavors of the paan range from sweet to savory and can be quite an adventure to try. Most of my students thoroughly enjoy the paan experience but feel shy about one of the inherent processes in enjoying paan, which is spitting. There are also numerous street food vendors, though it is best to be cautious about eating non-fried foods on the streets. A typical local meal consists of vegetarian dishes. The northern Indian thali, a plate filled with various curries, dal, rice, and roti, is a popular lunch choice and is a great way to try a variety of flavors in one go.
Moreover, for those with a sweet tooth, Varanasi is known for its delicious lassi, a yogurt-based drink flavored with fruits and spices – it is probably okay to try street lassi, primarily if sold in a clay mug. Overall, trying the local cuisine in Varanasi is a must-do experience for any foodie. The city is filled with vibrant flavors and unique dishes that cannot be found anywhere else in India.
If Kashi were not enough, Sarnath is just a few miles away. Sarnath is flocked by Buddhists, as one can imagine, and the energy and solace are of a different kind as compared to Kashi. Overall, these areas are must-see – for tourists and especially for pilgrims seeking total immersion. If one is a skeptic, visiting Kashi will awaken one’s spiritual side and provide a humbling experience. It is the Ganga that makes Kashi a true powerhouse and elevates the city’s energies to another level. It is no wonder that Hindus believe that a dip in the Ganga and time spent on the Kashi pilgrimage will help them attain mukti or liberation from the cycles of birth and death. Kashi is a reminder that there is much more to life than the material and physical world, and the city allows us to explore a more profound longing to touch our existential reality.
Kashi
A tower of light of immeasurable height
The cosmic reach of the blessed city drew
men of all kinds. Craftsmen and tradesmen,
scholars and priests, merchants and mendicants,
builders and boatsmen. Seekers of every kind
flocked to suck at the teat of eternity.
Mother Ganga took an odd turn to embrace
this sacred space. Even ensnared the Great Lord
Shambho by its charm.
The great Kashi lost in the folds of human memory
Now left graceless by the invading hordes
and the callous kind who administer bereft of
the sacred touch, but of greed and indolence
of the worst sort.
May blessed Kashi rise again
And touch one and all with its
Sacred light.
Love & Grace, ~Sadhguru (Forest Flower, November 2012)