Sarnath is located in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. This quiet town is minutes from the Hindu pilgrimage city of Kashi, and it is believed that Sarnath is where Gautama the Buddha gave his first sermon after his enlightenment and holds immense reverence among Buddhist believers. Sarnath is a place I take groups for a day tour during our visit to Varanasi.
Sarnath, located approximately 6 miles to the northeast of Varanasi/Kashi/Beneras in Uttar Pradesh, India, lies at the confluence of the Ganges and Varuna rivers. There have been thousands of Buddhas (enlightened beings) in the Indian Subcontinent. However, this location is where Gautama Buddha delivered his inaugural sermon around 528 BCE, following his enlightenment in Bodh Gaya, Bihar. Sarnath is of immense significance as one of the four major Buddhist pilgrimage destinations worldwide, alongside Bodhgaya, Kushinagar in India, and Lumbini in Nepal (see my travelogue on Nepal and Lumbini).
Sarnath is best experienced starting in the morning when the monks get ready to perform their ritual in and around the Stupa and when the believers begin their circumambulations. The area has become more touristy in the last few years, but there remains a degree of authenticity and serenity. The Deer Park in Sarnath is renowned for being where Gautama the Buddha delivered his first teachings on Dharma. English-speaking guides are readily available and will explain the history and prominence of the location in depth. The Dhamekha Stupa, a prominent structure in Sarnath, is believed to have been inhabited by the Pañcavaggiya monks after they departed from Gautama Buddha. Initially constructed by the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka, the Stupa was expanded during the Gupta period. Another significant stupa, the Dharmarajika Stupa, topped with a monolithic railing, was also commissioned by king Ashoka.
Stupas are known as monuments erected by Buddhists that house sacred relics associated with the Buddha. According to archeologists, the hemispherical stupas are derived from Hindu practices of creating burial mounds. The Stupa is a symbolic monument representing the enlightened presence of mind and harmonious existence or yoga, as experienced by the Buddha. It is expected to see monks in maroon and orange robes going around the Stupa barefoot or sitting in the shade of the Stupa and reading out loud or meditating and experiencing the silence within. From a yogic perspective, orange represents the lower chakra(s) responsible for survival – food, water, and shelter – aspects of life, and a yogi who wears orange is believed to have transcended beyond Maslow’s hierarchy. The orange seen in Hinduism and yoga seems to have a similar meaning to the maroon donned by Buddhist monks. However, it is expected to see Indian Buddhist monks wearing orange and a combination of orange and maroon.
The Stupa at Sarnath is spectacular in appearance and more prominent than it seems in photos. The Stupa is revered and visited by many from around the world – Buddhists, Hindus, monks, travelers, and groups of elderly on tours from Japan, Tibet, and China, and one often finds lines of children in uniform out on a field trip. Though the monument and the grounds seem busy with the hustle and bustle of the tour and school buses, there is a peaceful, welcoming serenity when one examines the surrounding ruins and the Stupa.
Sarnath was a hub of cultural and religious activities after Buddha’s sermon and reached unique popularity around the 3rd – 6th century during the Gupta period but was ransacked and destroyed. Qutbuddin Aibek mercilessly ravaged Sarnath, but the true savagery was unleashed by Bakhtiyar Khalji, one of Muhammad of Ghor’s ruthless slave generals, as his forces brutally obliterated educational and civilizational hubs; Vikrama Shila in 1193, Odantapuri in 1197, and Nalanda in 1200, leaving a trail of utter destruction and devastation in their wake. Though many monuments are desecrated or destroyed, a few important pieces are still preserved in the Sarnath Museum, which is adjacent to the monument’s site. Sarnath is further distinguished by the iconic lion-capital memorial pillar, established by Ashoka in the 3rd century BCE, which now serves as the state emblem of India. The site boasts numerous stupas, monasteries, and sculptures, many exhibited at the Sarnath Museum.
Sarnath is a popular destination for tourists and children, with ancient Buddhist and Hindu structures, as well as yoga-related artifacts on display. While many monuments have been desecrated or destroyed, the Museum preserves a few significant pieces; it is an emotional experience to walk through the Museum to say the least. To make the most of your visit, check the Museum’s opening hours in advance and avoid planning your trip during holidays when it might be closed. Given the usual crowd, it is wise to plan your visit thoughtfully. Enthusiasts typically spend around two hours exploring the Museum, carefully reading inscriptions. Although it can be somewhat disheartening to witness much of the artwork displayed here instead of its original locations, the yoga-related sculptures are undeniably breathtaking, serving as constant reminders of the potential for transcendence.
In the hearts and minds of those who seek spiritual enlightenment, Sarnath remains an exceptional place. It is here that Buddha first imparted his wisdom and shared his profound experiences. Sarnath marks the very inception of the Buddhist Sangha, a community that has grown and flourished, extending its influence beyond India’s borders. For yogis and spiritual seekers alike, a journey to this hallowed ground is a transformative experience. Amidst the remnants of majestic ruins, the lush greenery, and the towering, majestic trees, one can find invaluable lessons waiting to be discovered. To truly absorb the teachings of the great Buddha, one must close one’s eyes, be fully present in the mindful moment, and begin the profound journey of inner enlightenment.